Rhodo and Azalea beds

Rhododendrons, or "Rhodo's" are a great Deer resistant plants that grow well in our moderate climate and acid soil. They are from the Heath family so related to other acid lovers such as Heathers, and Blueberries. I am often asked what is the difference between Rhododendrons and Azaleas. Technically Azaleas are Rhododendrons but we usually refer to a decidous species, as well as some evergreen Oriental types as Azaleas. We most often refer to the large leathery leaf types as Rhododendrons.

Rhodos are healthiest in filtered sun, doing best not too shady or too sunny. Deep shade can produce leggy plants that don't bloom well. Hot sun and reflected heat are hard on rhodos too, as are cold winter winds. Rhodos need a well draining soil free from standing water and a good supply of water in hot and cold weather. If the fall is very dry give your Rhodos a good soak after the first frosts. They will handle winter winds much better if they are well hydrated. If you have extreme winds consider spraying them with an anti-dessicant .

Rhodos and Azaleas will thank you for providing not just good soil, but lots of additional organic materials such as compost, leaf mulch, or peat added at planting time. Prepare the beds to a depth of up to 18" for the biggest varieties. They are shallow rooted plants, so if you prepare your beds too deeply they may sink. They are sensitive to being planted too deep. They should be planted to their original soil levels, and benefit from being on a slight berm 2-3" above the surrounding areas. It's a great idea to mulch your beds with bark or leaf mulch. Fertilize in the Spring before and after blooming.

Young Rhodos and Azaleas can be pruned to form a compact plant. The light pruning should be done immediately after blooming. If you leave pruning too late you will cut off next years buds. Older Rhodos need very little pruning unless they are leggy. Prune back to where you can see a leaf node, or green leaves. Prune out dead or broken branches anytime.

When planting a rhodo bed pay special attention to the mature heights and widths the plants will be. Plot out your bed, starting at the back or middle and work large to small making your way toward the edges. Leave at least 18" from the edge of the bed. It is helpful to draw circles of the correct eventual diameter to fit the plants together.

Victoria has a Rhododendron Society if you interested in learning more here is their link.

Victoria Rhodo Society

Heather and dwarf Conifers are wonderful together, and make the perfect low maintenance Deer resistant duo.

Both are evergreen, and the conifers thrive in the same acidic, peaty soil favored by Heather. Our naturally acid soil makes them easy to grow here. Heathers need a well drained sunny spot that hasn't had too much fertilizer added.

Their shapes work well together, heathers spread out at a uniform level, where many dwarf conifers grow upwards and can be planted among them for vertical accents and colour contrasts. Additionally, you can use the trees as dividers to separate heathers of different types.In the late summer months when many perennials are waning, many of the Callunas are flowering heaviest. The winter blooming Ericas are natural selections for winter color. Erica carnea and E. x darlyensis start forming buds in early summer, that open as early as November in shades of pink, rose or white. These long lasting flowers are colorful all winter

Roughly figure 18" spacing when determining how many plants you will need (sq. ft. x .44 is the formula/ approx 4 Heathers per sq metre) for a large bed. Choose the taller growing varieties for the back or center of the bed and work your way to the edges, keeping in mind that the plants will grow into a solid mass of foliage leaving little bare ground exposed. I usually add one conifer for every 4 square metres. In very large beds you can use up to 20 of a single variety in each grouping. In smaller beds use groups of three or more of each type. Odd numbers work best.

You want contrasting foliage to define each grouping, so choose a gold or other colored foliage variety, then choose a silver, gray or dark green for the next grouping. Flower color is not as important as you may think but offset the mauves with white or light pinks if the plants are to bloom at the same time. Use the winter blooming Erica's' glossy green foliage as a buffer between a lot of Calluna.

When planning a garden of heather, begin by making an outline of your area first. If you're planning a border, start from the back of the bed with the taller plants and work forward; if the bed is to be viewed from all sides, begin your design from the center out. Arrange them until the placement looks right to you.

Other companion plants are: low growing Sedum's, Iberis, Hypericum, Lavender, Sempervivum, Allium, Arabis, Artemisia, Dianthus, Nepeta, Santolina, and Thyme to name a few perennials. Compact Cotoneaster, Vaccinum, Cytisus, grasses, and other leafy shrubs can also be interesting companion plants in a garden of heather.

We are lucky in Victoria to have a local Heather Society. You may view one of their demonstration garden's at Glendale Gardens. Check out their web-site if you would like to learn more.

Vancouver Island Heather Society

Sunny Deer resistant perennial borders

Here is a selection of hardy and easy to grow tried and true deer resistant plant combos. I have chosen 6 combination's that will fill approximately 32 sq ft, or a 4'x8' border. They can be repeated or mixed and matched to create a larger border, just measure your area and divide by 32 to see how many combo's you need. Each combo contains 16, 1 gallon plants that will cost approx $200. The larger size gives you a mature garden much better able to stand a test browse or two while your neighborhood deer learn there are better offerings down the block.
The first three plants go to the back of the border, or in the middle if it's a two sided bed. The single plant is a specimen in front of that, and the others are arranged, by height in front of that. If it's a two sided bed you only need to buy the 13 plants remaining , after you re-use the first three plants that formed the back of the border.

A)

Karl Foerster Calamagrostis x3

Pervoskia x1

Coreopsis yellow x3 (Moonbeam)

Nepeta x3

Salvia x3 (May Night)

B)

Anemone japonica x3


Lupine (Russel Series) x1


Echinacea x3 (lots of exciting new varieties)


Iris x3 (bearded)


Shasta Daisy x3
Sedum Autumn Joy x3 (may be browsed)

C)

Crocosmia Lucifer x3


Calla x1


Aconitum x3 (Monkshood)

Peony x3


Lavender x3

Yarrow ptarmica x3 (one of my new favorite plants)

D)

Aruncnus dioicus x3

Monarda x1

Agapanthus x3

Gaillardia x3

Wallflower (lots to choose from I like Winter Orchid)

Scabiosa x3 (Butterfly Blue)

E)

Joe Pye weed x3

Euphorbia wulfeii x1

Aster x3


Bergenia x3


Veronica gentenoides x3


Dianthus (Firewitch) x3

F)

Foxgloves x3



Oriental Poppy x1


Echinops x3



Liatris x3


Sisyrinchium x3


Stachys x3

Plantskydd Deer Repellant

I use Plantskydd to protect Urban Oasis Garden Centre, and recommend it for my customers.

Swedish Formula,
MADE IN THE USA
with 100% Natural Ingredients

Plantskydd provides plants with up to 6 months of protection over winter on ornamental shrubs & 3 months on most other succulent broadleaf plants.

Animals avoid plants
before they bite - not after!

What makes Plantskydd effective?

Plantskydd works by emitting an odor that animals associate with predator activity, repelling the animal before it nibbles on plants. The odor is not unpleasant to the applicator.

Research has proven that odor-based repellents are more effective than other repellent systems- where the animal needs to taste treated plants before being repelled. Once animals are attracted to an area and begin feeding, it is more difficult to discourage them from returning. Plantskydd stimulates a fear-based response which will have them looking for somewhere else to dine.

Plantskydd's long-term effectiveness is attributable to the tenacity of its 100% natural, vegetable oil binder in sticking to plants, even under severe snow/rainfall conditions: up to 6 months over winter, 3-4 months in summer.

Plantskydd is RAIN FAST IN 24 HOURS and repels by odor that is not unpleasant to applicators.

Which repellents actually work ?

" ...Studies investigating trends in efficacy of deer repellents indicate that, of the 20 products tested, repellents with active ingredients that emitted sulfurous odors i.e.: bloodmeal or egg solids, generally provided the best results..."

"...Products that contained active ingredients which cause pain/irritation (capsaicin, allyl isothiocyanate), or illness (thiram) were less effective..."

"...Products that use a bitter taste (denatonium benzoate) were usually the least effective in reducing damage by herbivores. Repellents that were applied to plant surfaces were generally more effective than capsules or other devices that produced an odor intended to protect a specific area."

for more info check out this Plantskydd link